Here I have taken a previous blog about dogs in general and added in the relevance to Border Collies.
1. Using no measurable data to know if you and your dog are improving or not. With out tracking your progress you will not know whether to continue with the training as it is or whether a change is needed. This is relevant to all dog breeds.
2. Working at too close a distance to the trigger so the dog is in a state where he can not learn. He is also practicing the unwanted behaviour here and thus getting 'better' at it. This can be difficult with Border Collies as they have been bred to detect movement at up to 900 metres away and so just increasing distance may be difficult to get enough distance. So if your Border Collies reactivity is due to movement sensitivity then just increasing distance may be difficult.
3. Working on the dog's most difficult trigger first. This is the same for all dogs.
4. Not knowing your dog's most valuable reinforcer to use in the training. Ignoring the fact that herding type behaviour is reinforcing in and of itself will set you up to fail. A food scatter will never over ride herding
5. Becoming a reactive owner. This is the same for all dogs.
To successfully help our reactive dogs to transform from reactive to relaxed we need to be strategic in our approach.
1. Keep a diary/record of data. Rather than just looking at whether your dog lunged and barked include factors such as intensity and recovery as well as frequency. By breaking it down you will be able to be reinforced by seeing the progress you are making which will motivate you to keep up the training.
2. Learn how to read your dog's body language so you can gauge the distance you need to be able to work at so that your dog can learn from the training in a positive way. This will also help you from working at such a great distance that your dog is well within their comfort zone and so no change is made. If your Border Collie's body language tells you there is herding behaviour driving the reactivity then you won't be using counter conditioning as a training approach. Instead focus on impulse control training.
3. Know all of your dog's triggers and work on the easiest first. This will make learning easier for you and your dog and as your dog builds confidence this will also make it easier to work on the more difficult triggers later.
4. Understand what your individual dog finds reinforcing so you have an effective reward to motivate a change in behaviour and a change in emotional response. If your dog won't take food or play with a toy then you won't be able to use them to train so will need other options.
5. Be the calm and confident one in the relationship so you can pass confidence to your dog. If you are feeling tense and clutching the lead each time you see a trigger before your dog then you are passing a message to your dog that all is not well and it is something to worry about.